Wide-cell pattern, 54 × 96 cells, made on Chromattice.
Samitum, samite: a weft-faced compound twill. A binding warp ties the wefts in a twill; a main warp sends each weft to the face or the back. True samite needs many more shafts. On four, only the structure is loom-controlled. Threaded 1-4-2-4-3-4: binding on 1, 2 and 3, main warp on 4. Each pass one binding shaft rises in turn; the face weft goes in with only that shaft up, the back weft with that shaft and 4. Treadles: 1, 1-4, 2, 2-4, 3, 3-4. A motif needs sword pick-up on shaft 4, so this is the ground cloth, in bands. Sett: fine and close. Æthelflied's band is 60/2 silk with roughly 50 pattern ends in about an inch; at her 1:1 that's about 100 in all (she found 1:1 too dense for the binding). She gives no pick count. Weft-faced, it needs at least twice as many picks as ends, so it is drawn at 200, 100 passes of two wefts. Checked against Æthelflied Brewbane's samite on a four-harness table loom: https://aethelfliedbrewbane.wordpress.com/2019/02/15/samite/
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